
In a Neasden house most of what matters is outdoors: a shed standing on sleepers with a void under it, a garage door showing daylight at one corner, bins against the back wall, an air brick grille that lost a corner years ago. Those are the details that decide whether a treated house stays quiet.
Proofing is £180 for up to one hour of small-hole work, booked once treatment has finished. Book proofing or call 0800 955 2347.
A rat or mouse indoors has usually been living outdoors first, and in these gardens the accommodation is the shed, the decking and the garage. Take away the space underneath them and the animal has to find somewhere further off, which is a slower, weaker start than one made from ten feet away. That is why an hour spent along the outbuildings and the boundary is generally worth more than an hour spent in a cupboard. The most common entry points lists what gets missed.
A shed on timber bearers or concrete blocks has a shallow, dry, undisturbed space beneath it, and so does a deck laid over a joist frame. Where the sides can be reached, a mesh skirt taken down into the ground and turned outwards stops anything digging in, and the work is quicker when the perimeter has been cleared of pots, logs and bags first. A shed whose floor has already rotted through is a different matter and needs rebuilding before sealing is worth doing.

An up-and-over garage door is meant to sit on its threshold and rarely does after thirty years: the concrete lifts, the door drops, the seal perishes and there is a finger's width of light along one edge. The side and rear doors are often older still, with a gnawed bottom rail or a frame that has pulled away from the brickwork. A small gap under a sound door can be closed within the hour; a buckled door or a broken threshold is a joiner's or builder's job.

Bins standing on soil against the back wall, next to an air brick, put food and shelter in the same square metre. Hard, level standing a little away from the building is the change that does the most, and a timber bin store wants the same treatment as a shed — closed at the base, with a door that shuts. Lids that will not close because the bin is overfull undo all of it.

An air brick is never simply blocked, because the floor void behind it needs its air or the joists suffer. A cracked or missing one is replaced, or covered with something that still passes air freely. The holes where waste and overflow pipes leave the wall, and the notch where a later cable or heating pipe was taken through, are sealed around the pipe rather than over it. Stopping rats at air bricks and proofing pipe and utility gaps describe both.
Some of what people ask about is building work, and saying so plainly saves everybody time. Fence panels with a gap along the bottom, a new gate, relaying a patio or a path, rebuilding a shed base, hanging a new garage door and repointing crumbling brickwork are for a builder, a fencer or a joiner. A drain fault is different again: a drainage contractor surveys the pipe and either repairs it or fits a one-way blocker, as rats and drains explains. You will be told which of those applies rather than having an hour spent on something that will not hold.
Closing gaps while rats or mice are still active shuts them inside the structure, where they gnaw a fresh way out or die somewhere nobody can reach. Book rat control or mouse control first and let the activity stop; before or after treatment explains the reasoning, and which holes rodents are actually using helps you tell a live route from an old one.
When you book rodent proofing, say whether it was rats or mice and when treatment finished, and list what you already know about: the shed, the decking, the garage door, the bin standing, a broken air brick, a pipe hole. Say whether the garage is attached to the house and whether there is a connecting door, and whether anything is against a boundary with commercial land.
Cut back the growth along the base of the rear wall, move the bins clear, empty the strip along the garage wall and pull pots and bags away from the shed. If there is a hatch into the space under decking, open it. A gap that cannot be got at cannot be sealed, and the hour runs either way.
You will hear which gaps were closed, which were left and why, and what needs another trade. If gnawing or fresh droppings show up beside something that was sealed, say so. Rodent Proofing Brent covers the borough, and the interwar houses across the water in Kingsbury have the same weak points.
Rodent proofing in Neasden is £180 for up to one hour of work on small holes and gaps, and that is the same figure for a house, a flat or the outbuildings behind them. What changes is how much gets finished: the number of small gaps and whether they can be reached decide that, which is why clearing the way beforehand is worth doing. Fencing, hard landscaping, new doors and drain repairs are referred to the right trade rather than squeezed into the hour.
| Treatment | Price |
|---|---|
| Rodent Proofing | £180 – up to 1 hour, small holes |
Where the sides of the shed can be reached and the base is sound, closing off the space underneath is exactly the kind of work the hour is for. Clear the pots, logs and bags from around it first. A shed with a rotted floor or a collapsed base needs rebuilding before there is any point sealing it.
No. They ventilate the void under a timber floor, and covering them over invites damp and rot in the joists. A damaged air brick is replaced, or covered with something that still lets air through freely.
A small gap under a door that still hangs and closes properly can usually be dealt with. A door that has dropped or buckled, or a threshold that has broken up, wants a joiner or builder first, otherwise the same gap reopens.
A fence is not a rodent barrier and is not what this service is for — rats go under, over or through one without much trouble. Fencing and hard landscaping are a builder's or fencer's work; proofing deals with the building and the outbuildings.
Not while anything is active inside, because sealing then traps it in the structure. Have mouse control or rat control done first, then book the gaps once the property is quiet.
Smaller than most people assume. What size hole a mouse can get through and what size gap a rat can get through give the measurements, and they are worth knowing before you decide a gap is too narrow to bother with.
Yes, and in a house with an attached garage the connecting door and the pipe runs beside it are usually worth including in the same hour. Stopping mice getting behind kitchen units covers what that involves.





















Tell us whether it was rats or mice, whether treatment has finished, and what you already know about — the shed, the garage door, the bins or a broken air brick.
Prefer to talk? Call 0800 955 2347 or WhatsApp us. Read how we use your details in our privacy policy.